Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always shaped its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to discover these stories and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
